Squalane Is The Key to Hydrating Super Dry Skin, According to Derms

Seemingly overnight, squalane went from an under-hyped ingredient to a celebrated skincare hero—and for good reason. Despite being an oil for the face, it's known for its lightweight feel and has tons of hydrating properties, which big brands harness in haircare and products for dry skin, including serums and moisturizers.

However, understanding how this super ingredient works alone and with other products can present a challenge. First, if you've researched the oil, you've likely noticed two different spellings for the rich emollient: squalane and squalene. Does the spelling make a difference in shelf life and the oil's overall efficiency, or is it the same thing? Is squalane safe to use with other skincare ingredients like retinol and vitamin C?

To answer all your questions about squalane, including its benefits, side effects, and how to use it, we spoke with top dermatologists Ryan Turner, MD, and Marie Hayag, MD, and cosmetic chemist Cheryl Woodman.

Keep reading to learn more about this soothing oil and why you should add it to your routine.

What Is Squalane?

"Squalane is the hydrogenated form of squalene," Turner tells Byrdie. "[It is] a lipid (or fat) that is naturally found in the skin and secreted by the sebaceous (oil) glands.

Where Does It Come From?

The use of this emollient in the beauty industry has long been controversial due to the fact that squalane found in cosmetics was sourced from shark liver. However, most companies are now using plant-based forms of squalane in their products. "Squalane can be naturally sourced from plants, for example, olives and sugar cane," says Turner.

Squalane vs. Squalene: How They Differ

Squalane is a more durable, hydrogenated derivative of squalene. Turner explains that "Squalene is not very stable for use in skincare products," as it oxidizes (aka degrades) when exposed to air. "So squalane is used for its longer shelf life."

Benefits of Squalane for Skin

• Softens the skin: "Squalane is great for softening or smoothing the skin, as it may help to support the natural outer barrier of the skin," says Turner.
• Calms inflammation: Turner explains, "It is a good option for dry and irritated skin, as it has been shown to help calm redness and inflammation."
• Great for dry skin types: Turner always recommends squalane for those with dry or sensitive skin. "Squalane is non-comedogenic, so it can be used for all skin types. Those with dry, irritated, or sensitive skin will see the most effect from squalane oil, but we can all benefit from this superstar skincare ingredient."
• Great for hair: If you love a product that does double duty, squalane is the one. It helps dry hair lock in moisture and has a light feel that won't weigh your hair down.
• Locks in hydration: Hayag says the compound doesn't just hydrate but is essential for our skin barrier. "This substance is known for locking in hydration by creating a protective barrier on the skin's surface," she explains.
• Moisturizes: "It is most beneficial for those with dry or mature skin because of its great moisturizing and emollient properties," she says. "It is also wonderful for people exposed to environmental factors such as sunburn, where the skin tends to lose moisture.
• Regulates oil production: "Despite popular belief, people with oily, acne-prone skin would benefit greatly from using squalane oil. Since it mimics what we naturally produce, introducing squalane oil can help regulate the amount of sebum the body makes," explains Hayag.
  

Side Effects of Squalane

Side effects from using squalane aren't common. However, if you have an adverse reaction, be sure to consult with your doctor. Since squalane isn't a reactive ingredient, Woodman says it will typically play nice with other products.

"If squalane is the main or only active in a face oil, there typically will be no issues mixing it into a routine that contains cosmeceutical-strength skincare," says Woodman. For that reason, squalane, she says, makes a great base for actives like retinol and niacinamide. "Niacinamide, in particular, is a great pairing, as both help to repair and promote a healthy, happy skin barrier."

How to Use Squalane

"One of the most sustainable ways to add squalane to your skincare routine is to look for a 100 percent plant-based oil, then use a few drops daily on your skin," says Turner. Once you find your squalane product of choice, Turner says you can add a few drops to your favorite moisturizer. You can also use it before applying retinol to cut down on irritation. "As a dermatologist, I often recommend that sensitive-skin patients, or those initiating use of a retinoid, use a moisturizer first and then apply the retinol/retinoid," Turner explains. "This can decrease the immediate contact of the retinol with the skin and slow its penetration, decreasing irritability. In addition, squalane has anti-inflammatory properties in and of itself that can help decrease irritation."

When using oils, you may have noticed that they sometimes seem to sit on the skin without fully absorbing. To combat this, Woodman recommends what she calls the oil sandwich. "Face oils can sometimes feel like they're [sitting] on top of [the] skin—a sign that they're not absorbing deeply." She notes that this can prevent the skin from benefiting from any active ingredients applied with oil, like squalane. 

"Creams and moisturizers contain actives, which help oils sink into skin to be most effective," she explains. So layering a moisturizer after applying squalane can ensure that all of the good stuff sinks in. "This pulls a face oil like squalane deeper into the skin for long-lasting benefits," Woodman says.