How to Prevent and Treat Upper Eyelid Wrinkles

Eye creams targeted to reduce the appearance of under-eye puffiness, dark circles, and fine lines are a dime a dozen, but the equally important upper eyelid area often gets left out of the conversation. "Upper-eyelid skin is prone to some of the same problems as lower-eyelid skin," says Amy Ross, MD, a board-certified dermatologist. "It is thin and delicate, loses elasticity with age, and is frequently subject to more makeup application." Crepes and folds can be a detriment to the smooth eyeshadow application we're all after, and the lack of knowledge on how to tackle the concern can make achieving taught skin feel like an entirely unattainable pursuit. The experts, however, say otherwise.

To learn about how to take care of our upper eyelids (and the wrinkles that often accompany them), we spoke with Ross and board-certified dermatologist, Rita Linkner, MD.

Meet the Experts

Amy Ross, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist specializing in Mohs Micrographic Surgery and laser treatment of skin disorders.
Rita Linkner, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist practicing all aspects of dermatology including cosmetics, cutaneous surgery, and medical dermatology.

Below, find out what our experts had to say about the causes, treatment, and prevention methods of upper eyelid wrinkles.

What Causes Eyelid Wrinkles

Between harsh makeup application and skimping on hydration, there are a number of reasons why eyelid wrinkles form.

Tugging or pulling: "The skin on the eyelid is much thinner than anywhere else on the body," notes Ross. "The epidermis and dermis are only a fraction of the depth of other areas on the face, and therefore can be more prone to insult." For this reason, it's crucial to put an end to rubbing, tugging, and pulling on your eye area when you apply and remove makeup, and even when you're popping your contacts in and out.
Blinking: Though it's a normal bodily function, blinking can be the source of crepey lids. "Think of how many times you blink in a minute," says Linkner. "This thin-skinned area is over-utilized and is why I treat crow’s feet oftentimes earliest than any other area of the face."
Dehydration: In some, eyelid wrinkles form due to puffiness and a lack of hydration. While some anti-aging eye creams may be too harsh to use on the upper eyelid, Ross notes that certain creams are deemed safe to use on the contours of the eyes and can be used to boost hydration.
Sun exposure: We know the damaging effects of sun exposure on our skin as a whole, but it's especially harsh on our delicate eyelids, speeding up aging and, thus, saggy skin. Linkner says that because this area of the eye is so thin, it ages very aggressively given the addition of sun exposure to the face.

Skin loses elasticity over time, and although we can't replace elastic fibers, there are some things we can do to alleviate upper eyelid wrinkles. Our expert-delegated tips, below.

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Use a Gentle Eye Makeup Remover to Avoid Tugging

While it may be tempting to rub your eyes raw while removing your eye makeup after a long evening, this can cause some serious distress to your lids. Ross notes the actual makeup products you use doesn't inherently cause wrinkles, but the application and, even more importantly, the removal of it can be traumatic to this delicate area of the skin. "Finding a gentle, but effective makeup remover that doesn't strip the eyelid skin of natural oils or require manual scrubbing to be effective is important," she says.

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Do Eyelid Exercises

The orbicularis oculi are the muscles that wrap around the eyes and are responsible for maintaining our upper and lower eyelids. Targeting this area with a tightening exercise can help iron out those folds naturally—think of it like yoga, but for your eyelids. To perform, press the Facegym Face Ball to the outer corner of the eye (underneath your brow bone) lifting up your skin to encourage that position. Then, fiercely blink your eye ten times. Work against the tension of your ball, and feel the muscle around your eye get stronger. Next, move the ball to the other side and repeat the same exercise. Do this four times a week to help tighten those muscles.

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Put Down the Exfoliants

While you may have honed your skincare regimen to an exemplary lineup, many skin-loving techniques come up short on the eyelid area. "Some of the tips we recommend for improving crepey skin—such as exfoliation—can not be applied to the eyelids because of the delicate nature of the skin," says Ross.

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Use a Hydrating Eye Mask

That said, Ross still stresses the importance of keeping this area hydrated. "This is the most important thing we can do to improve the appearance of crepey skin." The Vitality-Enhancing Eye Mask Supreme from Clé de Peau Beauté revitalizes this often-neglected area with a luxurious and hydrating hug.

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Apply a Collagen-Boosting Eye Cream

Linkner notes the importance of peptide-boosting ingredients, as they can make a huge difference in stimulating collagen production in this most delicate area. She recommends applying eye cream twice a day—in the morning to create a barrier from all the other actives that touch the facial skin, and at night to rejuvenate. The Complete Eye Cream from Colleen Rothschild features botanicals and peptides to reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles.

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Use Eyeshadows With SPF

We apply sunscreen to nearly every part of our face, except our upper eyelids. On days that call for eyeshadow, you can keep your lids protected with Supergoop!'s SPF cream shadows. They're long-wearing, impressively opaque, and feature a mix of protective mineral and clean chemical ingredients. One caveat: Ross explains that for those who don't apply eyeshadow every day, the protection an SPF eyeshadow provides would be inconsistent. She recommends the use of UV-blocking sunglasses to offer protection as much as possible.

Byrdie Tip

If your go-to eyeshadow isn't packed with SPF, don't fret. Apply an SPF primer as protective base before layering on your shadow of choice.

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Avoid Using Retinol Products

Both experts advise against the use of retinol eye products. "Retinols can cause irritation and if applying to the eyelid skin, the risk of irritation is higher because things absorb so much easier," explains Ross. "In addition, retinols thin the epiderms, so if you are someone who waxes their eyebrows, you need to be extra cautious." Linkner agrees, adding that using eye creams containing retinol can potentially create an eczematous reaction.

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Relieve Puffiness Around the Eyes

"Puffiness around the eyes can lead to a crepey appearance," says Ross. "Think of your mother or grandmother with cold cucumbers over their eyes—the idea being the ascorbic and caffeic acids could reduce the puffiness." Opt for eye products that safely deliver actives to combat crepey skin around the eyes, like Epara Skincare's Eye Serum. It features a slew of skin-loving ingredients (think: bamboo silk, niacinamide (vitamin B3), and frankincense oil).

Byrdie Tip

Store it in your fridge (or skincare fridge, if you're fancy) to double the de-puffing benefits.

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Apply Products Sparingly

In terms of application, it's important to know that because this area is so thin, whatever is applied on top will absorb quickly. "The quick absorption allows us to apply only a small amount of a product in order to achieve an effect, so we should use products sparingly around the eyes," Linkner advises.

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Invest In LED Light Therapy Glasses

LED light therapy has been getting a lot of buzz recently, and for good reason. Red and infrared light works by reaching the deep layers of your skin and stimulating collagen production to plump the skin and smooth out wrinkles. While full-face LED devices are the most popular, you can also choose a targeted approach by using an LED eye mask, such as Dr. Dennis Gross's DRx SpectraLite EyeCare Max Pro.

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Go for the Pro Treatments

When the topical treatments aren't showing any results, it might be time to invest in some professional treatments. Botox (or its cousin Dysport) used around the crow's feet area can also help reduce wrinkles and crepey skin around the upper eyelid. You can also consider delving into professional chemical peels that are designed to be gentle on the skin.

Here's How to Prevent and Treat Upper Eyelid Wrinkles