Do Firming Body Creams Actually Work? Dermatologists Tell All

The beauty industry is full of marketing buzzwords and none are more effective than one head-turning term: firming. It would seem the the human psyche is utterly incapable of resisting the promise of tighter skin and preserving a certain youthful plumpness. While we're all for the transformative powers of a quality skincare routine, we're equally wary of products that overpromise. So we ask: Do body firming creams, which claim to encourage collagen production for tighter, rejuvenated skin, actually work? We asked three board-certified dermatologists for their verdict, and it turns out it's all about choosing the right formula for your needs and being realistic about results. Ahead, learn all about how firming creams work, what to look for, and the best products to try.

What Are Firming Body Creams?

Put simply, firming creams and related body products aim to do exactly what their name says: help skin to appear more taut and firm by counteracting the natural depletion of collagen that happens as we age. “Typically, 'firming' creams are products that will enhance production of collagen and elastin in the skin to tone and tighten,” explains board-certified dermatologist Shari Marchbein, MD. Especially during the summer, when more skin is showing, the idea of a cream that “firms” things up is pretty appealing. 

How Firming Body Creams Work

Firming creams work by encouraging our bodies to produce collagen, especially once our bodies reach the point where they make less of it naturally. “We know that after age 25, our bodies start producing less collagen at a rate of about 1% less per year in the skin, so that by the time we’re 50, there is almost no new collagen being made and the collagen that remains becomes broken down, fragmented and weaker,” Marchbein explains. 

But why is collagen so crucial to maintaining taut, firm skin? Collagen, board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD, tells us, “is the component of the skin that provides structure.” Weak collagen leads to sagging skin, and so can weak elastin, which “is the component of the skin that gives it bounce.” Certain ingredients (more on those later) can help stimulate collagen and elastin production—but the short answer to the main question remains: Don’t expect any miracles. While firming creams can certainly help with making skin appear plump and firm upon application, they're ultimately enhanced moisturizers that can only do so much.

Are Firming Body Creams Actually Effective?

Firming creams can improve your skin, but you shouldn't expect their results to be as visibly dramatic as what you would get from a professional treatment or procedure. “Certainly, these creams are not a means of weight loss, nor can they achieve the tightening that various laser devices boast (including those that use heat, cooling, ultrasound, or radio frequency to dissolve fat and tighten skin),” Marchbein notes. “Nor will they compete with surgical procedures, including abdominoplasty, liposuction and injections of biostimulatory fillers (i.e. Sculptra).”

While firming creams can't replace other treatments entirely, it's still possible to use them to help amplify their results. “They will also not remove stretch marks or cellulite, so having realistic expectations about what to achieve is important before spending money on various firming creams,” Marchbein explains. "Some are just really good moisturizers and help to plump the top layer of skin, which can in and of itself make the skin temporarily look smoother and tighter.” Bottom line: These are not miracle creams and work modestly at best.

Benefits of Firming Body Creams

Despite these caveats, the right topicals can help improve the appearance of skin:

• Moisturizing: Firming creams are usually enhanced moisturizers, which means that whether or not they result in taut, bouncy skin, they'll usually at least work to give your skin a boost of nourishment. Making sure your skin is adequately moisturized is always a good way to help it look and feel better.
• Plumping: When your complexion is well-moisturized with a healthy barrier, it's likely to appear more plump. This can temporarily "firm" your skin, since the plumping effect can create a tighter appearance similar to what natural collagen does.
• Good for short-term improvement: While body firming creams are unlikely to permanently change your skin, "it is reasonable to expect a product like this to help you look good, for example, in a dress with a slit for a big night out," explains board-certified dermatologist Ranella Hirsch, MD

Common Ingredients

When it comes to the best ingredients used in firming creams, some are easily recognizable to any (facial) skincare fan, while others are unique to the skin on our bodies. These are a few (but not all) of the most common ingredients in firming body products:

• Retinol: Of course, retinol holds a prominent spot on the list. It is “perhaps the best-studied ingredient we have to strengthen the foundation of the skin,” Zeichner notes. “It directly stimulates our skin cells to rev up collagen production.” 
• Antioxidants: Antioxidants, like vitamin C and coenzyme Q10, “act like fire extinguishers to put out inflammation in the skin caused by free radical damage and allow the skin to function optimally,” Zeichner explains.
• Hydroxy Acids: “Hydroxy acids like glycolic acid provide exfoliating, brightening and collagen-stimulating benefits,” Zeichner tells us. At their proper concentrations, AHAs and BHAs can be majorly helpful in achieving a radiant, rejuvenated result.
• Peptides: Peptides, a hero ingredient in body firming creams, “are messengers that tell your skin cells to do a specific job,” Zeichner says. “The first peptides that came on the market worked by stimulating collagen; however, subsequent peptide molecules perform other jobs like reducing inflammation and evening skin tone. The peptides typically used in firming creams work by strengthening the skin to improve elasticity and firmness.”
• Caffeine: Caffeine, commonly used in these kinds of products, “helps constrict blood vessels to reduce excess fluid in the skin and also helps the body break down extra fat,” Zeichner says.
• Shiitake Mushrooms: Finally, certain botanical ingredients like shiitake mushrooms are often found in firming creams “because they help increase production of elastin fibers,” Zeichner notes.

Firming Body Creams vs. Cellulite Creams

Words like firming and smoothing may have mass consumer appeal, but their meanings can be entirely subjective. Where one might expect the results of a more plump look to the dermis, others may seek to eradicate crepiness or cellulite bumps. So what's the difference between a firming body cream and a product actually geared towards cellulite? While both contain similar ingredients to improve skin elasticity and hydration, creams that specifically target cellulite will contain a greater range of ingredients such as aminophylline for fat cell reduction, or natural acids and extracts that increase blood flow to the skin. So, while most cellulite creams are also firming creams, not all firming body creams can diminish the look of cellulite. However, it's worth noting that the efficacy of cellulite creams isn't well-supported. "Creams cannot reach deep enough to access the fibrous bands responsible for creating the appearance of cellulite," says dermatologist Julia A. Siegel, MD.

The Takeaway

Firming creams with dermatologist-supported ingredients like retinol, peptides, and caffeine can certainly support the firmness of the skin, but don't expect a dramatic before-and-after (especially if you're using a firming cream to treat the appearance of cellulite). Instead, professional treatments for loss of skin firmness and increased cellulite such as Endermologie and Cellfina are more likely to produce a visible difference.