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Stocksy
As you age, it is inevitable to experience certain changes from head to toe. In terms of your face, the skin stops producing as much collagen as it once did, which is responsible for loss of plumpness and eventually, sagging. Your skin also begins to lose its radiance, which leads to a duller appearance and age spots. Finally, years of facial movements create wrinkles, and most prominently forehead wrinkles, crow's feet, and smile lines.
While getting older is absolutely a luxury and visible signs of aging are essentially badges of honor, it's only natural to feel some resistance towards your changing appearance. So, should you be looking to minimize the marionette lines around your mouth, there are some treatments you can try. To best understand what causes smile lines and how to treat them, we spoke to two board-certified dermatologists, an esthetician, and a plastic surgeon—keep reading for all their best tips.
Meet the Experts
- Kavita Mariwalla, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist specializing in facial reconstruction, skin cancer detection, and treatment.
- Anna Guanche, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist, celebrity beauty expert and founder of Bella Skin Institute.
- Renée Rouleau is a celebrity esthetician and founder of her eponymous skincare brand.
- Alexis Parcells, MD, board-certified plastic surgeon, owner of Parcells Plastic Surgery and founder of SUNNIE Wrinkle Reducing Studio.
What Are Smile Lines?
According to dermatologist Kavita Mariwalla, MD, smile lines are the common—aka non-scientific—term for nasolabial folds, or the vertical lines that extend from the sides of the nose and curve around the mouth. They're a natural part of aging and, therefore, can be tricky to treat unless you're willing to opt for a cosmetic procedure. (But more on that in a minute).
What Are Smile Lines Caused By?
"Smile lines occur due to the natural loss of volume that occurs in the face with age," Dr. Mariwalla says. "Our cheek compartment has seven fat pads that descend and shift with time. The smile lines become more prominent due to the way these fat pads shift and move."
And though smile lines are basically an inevitable and a natural part of the aging process, Dr. Mariwalla stipulates that certain lifestyle factors can make them worse. For instance, sun damage, sudden drastic weight loss, or diet.
How to Treat Smile Lines
Get Fillers on Your Smile Lines
If you're bothered by your smile lines, Dr. Mariwalla suggests going the route of injectables. "Fillers that contain hyaluronic acid can be injected to improve the appearance of these lines. Typically, I recommend these types of injections to start as they have a more natural and immediate result. Then, I suggest a great skincare routine for maintenance and further prevention."
Key Ingredients
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring polysaccharide found in the human body. It acts as a cushioning and lubrication agent for our joints, nerves, hair, skin, and eyes. When used in skincare, it acts as a moisture binder, which means that it will attach itself to the water in the cells (while also attracting and holding water from the air) making them plump.
Try PDO Threads
Dermatologist Anna Guanche, MD, says that fillers are number one, but if you're looking into other options, she also suggests PDO (polydioxanone) threads. "PDO (polydioxanone) threads are medical grade threads that are thinner than a hair, made up of protein. A mini PDO thread lift can help decrease the volume in the lower face that creates more intense smile lines by pulling the skin up and back," she says.
"Strategically placing the protein into the skin and leveraging the thread to pull the volume in the nasolabial folds up and back helps correct smile lines. The proteins used are dissolvable sutures that help lift and tighten the decreased elasticity in the skin. Mono threads can also be placed across the nasolabial folds and as they resorb, are replaced by collagen, thus volumizing the area."
Get Radiofrequency Microneedling
Dr. Guanche also recommends radiofrequency microneedling as another non-invasive option. She explains, "Radiofrequency microneedling is a procedure that involves microneedling while delivering energy into the dermis of the skin, allowing collagen stimulation from the microneedling and skin tightening from the radiofrequency technology. This dual-action technique helps tighten the skin, stimulate collagen, reduce pore size, and improve the overall skin texture and skin elasticity to tighten the skin while maintaining a natural appearance. The firming and collagen stimulation benefits help reduce the appearance of smile lines."
Experiment with Fraxel Laser
Fraxel is a skin-resurfacing treatment that uses a fractional laser and can also be used to treat smile lines. "The Fraxel 1550 is another procedure that can help reduce smile lines because of the microscopic laser columns that penetrate deep into the skin and help the body remodel its own collagen," says Dr. Guanche. The Fraxel 1550 helps reduce signs of aging by resurfacing the skin, stimulating collagen, and initiating the growth of healthy, new skin cells. "When there is a micro-injury to the skin, it forces the body to generate more collagen to repair the injury, creating a more youthful appearance," she explains.
Adopt a Skincare Routine
Look for products with retinol or others rich in peptides and collagen-building properties, which can improve skin elasticity to help slow down the formation of smile lines and other kinds of wrinkles.
Celebrity esthetician and skincare expert, Renée Rouleau, explains that although topical skincare products can act as a strategic preventative measure when it comes to the formation of smile lines, they can't completely erase them. If you start early with a proper skincare routine, though, you can stave off lines and wrinkles.
Plastic surgeon, Alexis Parcells, MD, adds, "it's possible to reduce the appearance of laugh lines through your skincare routine. Look for products containing ingredients like retinol or vitamin C that promotes collagen production and improves skin elasticity."
Prioritize SPF
We know it can be a pain, but applying SPF daily can make a huge difference in your appearance. Sunscreen may not get rid of smile lines, but it can prevent the sun damage that may be the cause of your smile lines in the first place. And if you have smile lines, but don't want them to get deeper, using an SPF every day should also be a priority.
Apply Silicone Patches
Big night coming up and you want to look super snatched? Silicone patches are a great option to temporarily treat smile lines. They work by forming an occlusive barrier on the skin, which traps moisture and hydration. This plumps the skin and temporarily reduces fine lines and wrinkles. For the best results, leave them on overnight (or at least eight hours).
Practice Facial Massages
Stimulate blood flow to the area and plump fine smile lines by doing gentle facial massages. While the results will be more temporary than with other options like filler, doing consistent massages can help retrain the muscles and keep them taut.
Invest in an LED Mask
If you've been scrolling your social media and have seen an uptick of people wearing LED masks, know they aren't just a fad—they really do work. Studies have shown that red LED light can both lift and tighten skin, and that includes smile lines as well. The reason: they may boost collagen production and increase circulation—making the skin plump and firm. If the mask isn't your thing, LED wands, like the Solawave are also super popular.
Get a Tretinoin Prescription
Dr. Guanche notes, "Regular and consistent use of topical tretinoin can help improve the quality of collagen in the skin, leading to a smoother appearance. Consistently moisturizing the skin can also help keep smile lines at bay." The powerhouse ingredient—which also goes by retinoic acid and Retin-A—can be anywhere between 10 to 100 times more powerful than an OTC retinol, meaning it boosts collagen and stimulates skin cell turnover way faster and more effectively than anything you can find at your local drugstore.