How to Use a Dermaroller to Get Microneedling Effects at Home

With dermarolling, you can get the benefits of microneedlingwithout leaving home. The at-home procedure can diminish the appearance of under-eye bags, plump the lips, and more. But is dermarolling safe for everyone? And how do you use derma-roller, anyway? Find out, ahead. We tapped two dermatologists and an expert aesthetician to reveal everything you need to know about dermarolling, from the serums you should use with it to which size needles to choose.

What Is Dermarolling?

"Dermarolling is a procedure that utilizes a circular roller with multiple microneedles that penetrate the skin as the roller moves across its surface," says board-certified dermatologist Kseniya Kobets. "Its physical penetration of the skin stimulates collagen in the skin and stimulates skin cell turnover, as manifested by the possible mild peeling of the skin over a few days after the procedure." She notes that the collagen-building effects of the procedure can take weeks to months to start showing results.

Dermarolling at Home v. Microneedling at a Medspa

How is using a dermaroller at home different from getting an in-office procedure? "Overall, dermarolling is a form of microneedling. However, it differs from automatic electric microneedling pens [that professionals use] which use an electric mechanism to penetrate the skin several hundreds of times per second. This also occurs perpendicular to the skin. Dermarollers also penetrate the skin with microneedles but rely on manual rolling of the device and [and the mirconeedles] do not enter the skin at 90 degrees as this could potentially tear the skin. At first glance, using dermarollers seems convenient in the sense that they do not require charging the device and can be reused multiple times. However, derm rollers do need to be cleaned appropriately after each use, whereas the electric microneedling devices have disposable tips that do not carry the possible risk of growing bacteria and causing a skin infection. Also, in-office electric microneedling devices have adjustable depths of penetration, anywhere from 0.25mm to 3.5mm depth penetration, which allows you to target different levels of the skin, more superficially for pigmentation like melasma and hyperpigmentation, and deeper to build collagen."

What Are the Benefits of Dermarolling?

According to Dr. Hadley King, a dermatologist in New York City, the benefits of dermarolling include everything from immediate skin plumping to scar improvement.

• Helps improve scars: Dr. King cites a study which, she explains, "found that the technique can reduce atrophic [sunken or pitted] scars."
• Boosts active ingredients: "Applying active ingredient-based skincare to the face right after dermarolling allows those super ingredients (like retinoids, vitamin C, ferulic acid, hyaluronic acid, growth factors, AHA/BHA) to penetrate more deeply, boosting their efficacy," Dr. King says.
• Plumps the skin immediately: The immediate skin plumping effect can be for two reasons: increased penetration of ingredients like hyaluronic acid or inflammation and swelling from the microtraumas, Dr. King explains. 
• Plumps the skin over time: Dr. King says that "long term plumping could result from increased collagen over time."

Is Dermarolling Suitable For All Skin Types?

Dermarolling can benefit all skin types, though those with sensitive skin should be mindful. "I would recommend dermarolling for someone who does not have extremely sensitive skin, and I would not recommend dermarolling on inflamed, cystic or broken out skin," Dr. King says.

Those with more mature skin will likely find it particularly useful, as it's an ideal method for filling in fine lines and wrinkles, thickening the skin under the eyes (helping to diminish the appearance of dark circles and bags), and even plumping up lips. Dermarolling is also an effective treatment for acne scars and discoloration because it penetrates the skin so deeply, helping to break up old scar tissue and stimulate healing.

How Do I Choose a Dermaroller?

First off, make sure you’re sourcing one from a quality retailer. There are great (and budget-friendly) dermarollers on Amazon, but you should ensure any product is well-reviewed and from a verified seller before making your selection. That said, the Stacked Skincare Microneedling Tool is high quality and at a reasonable price point.

The next thing you have to consider is needle size. Kerry Benjamin, an aesthetician and the founder of Stacked Skincare, strongly advises only using 0.3 mm or lower, as anything thicker has a higher risk of damaging skin (especially on delicate areas around the eyes and lips). “If you want to do a deeper microneedling treatment with a larger needle size, I recommend going to a professional,” she adds.

How to Safely Dermaroll at Home

1. Prep Your Skin

Prep your skin by cleansing and then exfoliating with a gentle chemical or fruit enzyme peel (skip the exfoliation if you have sensitive skin)—this second step helps to ensure that there's no dead skin, dirt, or oil build-up that can prevent your dermaroller from penetrating the skin.

2. Choose the Right Serums

After applying your peel (if you use one), apply your serum of choice. “One of the main points of microneedling at home is to really maximize the efficacy of your serums,” says Benjamin. Still, she notes, “It’s really important to buy the right serum with the right active ingredients to get the most benefits and also avoid any adverse reactions.” That means embracing some ingredients and steering clear of others.

Benjamin recommends choosing formulas that contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid, stem cells, peptides, and growth factors. “These are the types of ingredients that will really maximize the effects of microneedling to stimulate collagen, speed up cell turnover, lift hyperpigmentation, smooth out fine lines, firm, plump, and hydrate."

3. Use Your Dermaroller

"Lightly roll over a clean, dry face, moving the roller in one fluid back and forth motion covering each area of the face vertically, then change directions to roll in horizontal and diagonal patterns," says Dr. King. No need to press too hard or put yourself in pain—apply as much pressure as you can comfortably tolerate. You can repeat this up and down, then back and forth routine several times. Just be sure to lift the roller away from the skin after each pass to prevent tears.

4. Apply Another Serum

After you're done rolling, add a second layer of serum. If you aren’t overly sensitive to retinol, Benjamin says you can use one after rolling. Know that this can increase your chances of irritation, though, so you may want to work up to it and/or apply a hydrating serum ahead of your vitamin A as a buffer.

5. Clean Your Dermaroller

After each use, you should cleanse your roller with rubbing alcohol and store it in its plastic case. Also, be sure to replace the head of your dermaroller often—once a month, if you’re using it several times a week, or after about 10 to 15 uses.

How Long Does It Take to See Results?

As with most skincare treatments, the amount of time it takes to see results can vary depending on your skin type, the dermaroller you're using, and how often you use it. It may take between two to six months to see results. In terms of frequency of use, it's up to you. You can safely use your microneedling tool as often as a few times a week, but some may choose to use it just once a month and are still able to maintain results. It depends on what you’re most comfortable with and what kinds of skin issues you’re treating. (If you have a lot of discoloration or fine lines, you may want to use yours more often).

Are There Any Side Effects?

"The usual side effects of microneedling is mild temporary pinpoint bleeding at sites of needles penetrating the skin, mild-to-moderate redness of the skin—which is often transient, but can last for a few hours to up to 24 hours, mild swelling, especially around sensitive skin areas like the eyes," Kobets says. "Of note, dermarollers specifically can cause extra damage to the skin in a few ways. The first is that the dermaroller may not be fully cleaned and bacteria and other pathogens can grow on it. Another way is that the dermaroller can shear or microscopically tear the skin and create mechanical irritation as it rolls over the skin and can cause excess irritation and potentially cause hyperpigmentation."

How Often to Use a Dermaroller

How often you dermaroll is dependent on the size of your needles, as well as your skin type. If your dermaroller has longer needles, you may only need to dermaroll once per month. If they're shorter, you could potentially dermaroll every other day. If your skin is typically sensitive, ease into how frequently you partake in this treatment.